Panteli or Panagia Castle

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Panteli or Panagia Castle

Known by various names, this castle is an absolute must for visitors to Leros. The Castle, perched on the top of a hill, dominates the skyline from all around. It is a strong medieval fortress, crowning the peak of the Pityos hill, at a height of about 600 meters above sea level, able to see many of the bays around Leros. This monument is the trademark of the island and one of the best attractions.

You will find a short history of the castle as you walk in, explaining its stages of construction that date back over 1,000 years. The castle is partly restored, and because of this has a true historical feel to it. It has a church and museum attached to it, which are both very interesting. The church at the entrance is dedicated to Panagia (the Virgin Mary) and visitors are very welcome. The castle ruins themselves are quite extensive and the visitor has 'access to all areas' as long as you are willing and able to climb and clamber. Do not forget to visit the large, underground cellars and water reservoirs within the castle wells.

History

The castle was probably built in the 11th century on the site of an ancient acropolis. A chrysobull of 1087 associates it with the Blessed Christodoulos, founder of the Monastery of St. John the Theologian on the neighboring island of Patmos. It appears that at the time was in a poor state; the grant included the walls, a church with some monastic cells and some other buildings in ruinous condition. Over the years, it has been extended and reinforced several times, also by the Knights of Saint John who used the fortress to protect the island and its inhabitants from invasions. Four coats of arms in various parts of the monument testify to the Hospitaller efforts to strengthen the defense.

In the 13th century Leros was captured by the Genoans and later by the Venetians. In 1309, the Knights of Saint John arrived and during their occupation, some serious reinforcement and restoration work was done in the castle. The Ottomans tried to besiege it in 1505 and 1508 without success. Finally, they got the island in 1522, after the Siege of Rhodes and the subsequent departure of the knights from Dodecanese. During the Italian occupation (1912-1945) it was used as a military base and some constructions of cement were added to the castle.

The church of Panagia

On the west side of the fortress stands the church of Panagia, probably dating from the 18th century, with icons of considerable religious significance. The church of Panagia comprises a religious and intellectual cultural symbol for the residents of Leros.  According to the legend, an icon of Panagia appeared on the island emerging from the sea. It is said that it was miraculously placed in the castle’s gunpowder storage area between two lit candles and remained there despite all efforts made by the Turkish Aga of that period to have it removed from that specific spot. The icon is a precious religious heirloom of worship for the local people of Leros. Next to the church, is the Ecclesiastical Vestry of Byzantine Art packed with many treasured articles. At the center of the fortress stands the church of Fangoklissia (translating to church of the Franks) with a magnificent icon and fine wall paintings.

Access

Make sure you check the times the castle is open before heading up. You can walk up from Platanos along a switchback road, which will take you 30-45 minutes at a decent pace, or find the stairs leading up through town for a shorter but steeper walk. Alternatively, you can drive up to the base of the castle, with some steps to climb up. The views along the way are great, but the views from the castle, are spectacular, of the bays, the sea, and the towns on both sides, all framed by the rocky structure. This is definitely the best place to get views and take amazing photos of not only Leros, but many of the other nearby islands. At the castle there are no facilities and most of it is exposed to the sun, so we would recommend wearing sturdy footwear, applying sun cream and bring some water. The castle is illuminated at night and visible from Panteli to Alinda. It is open daily from 08:30 to 13:00, and also Wednesday, Saturday and Sunday from 15L00 to 19:00, but hours could change during high season.